That's primarily because the bay is so natural and pristine. No discos, no stores, no restaurants, no telephones, no lights, and only a few weather-beaten fishermen who live in boxes on the banks of the mangroves inside the bar. The views from the water are great, but from the peaks on the north, the views are spectacular. To the south, the rest of the huge bay could provide protection from the prevailing northwesterlies for 1,000 boats; to the east, the winding mangroves and ever-changing tidal marshes, and the sand dunes. And in the distance, the blue waters of Mag Bay. It's about an hour hike to the top of the peaks for those in good shape — and who remember to bring water. By the time sailors get this far south, it's strictly t-shirts and shorts weather — although oddly enough, there can be very thick fog in the wee hours of the morning. That's another reason you always want to swing wide around the point, along with avoiding the fish traps. Yes, the water is warm, but it's more fun to swim for pleasure than to remove a trap's line off your prop shaft. Most Ha-Ha'ers take the first day in Bahia Santa Maria easy, resting up from the 240-mile sail down from Turtle Bay. Although the more energetic ones explore the mangroves by dinghy or surf or kiteboard. Surfing? Sometimes there are excellent waves out at the point. And always something or the other where the waves break over the bar. The last day in Bahia Santa Maria is surrealistic, as a rock 'n roll band travels many hours, including many miles down the beach at low tide, from La Paz to play for tips. They've been doing this for nearly 25 years. In addition, Victor and his crew of fishermen's wives prepare seafood lunches. Beer? There's plenty of it and ice cold. Dancing? You bet. You have to experience lay day at Bahia Santa Maria to believe it. Depending on the year, crossing the bar in a dinghy can be easy or treacherous. The latter is particularly true for those with lots of passengers and small outboards. That's why most people get rides ashore in on the pangas, which can be plenty exciting itself. One year the surf came up so big that by the end of the afternoon not even the hardcore panga drivers would risk going out. Soon to be known as Survivor, Bahia Santa Maria, 72 Ha-Ha folks had to spend the night ashore. It was an experience and all the unattended boats at anchor were well cared for. To enjoy Bahia Santa Maria in the unique Ha-Ha way, sign up for the 750-mile Baja Ha-Ha cruisers rally, with R&R stops at Turtle Bay and Bahia Santa Maria. We doubt you'll regret it. Registration for the Ha-Ha opens on May 11 at noon. Click here to register. Notice of the Rally can be found here.
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